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See the big UVS marking. This is what to look for if the windows are coated.

Has anyone tried the Workorse 2 plotter for tint and ppf? What software are you using? Does the plotter seem reliable or should I pass?

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Agreed on the perfection myth. I like to think my work is exceptionally good, but the better the job in general, the fussier the customer seems to get. People need to keep in mind that we are essentially taking a sheet of flat film and skillfully working it into shape before applying it to a piece of glass that's often awkward to get to without some MINOR contamination being picked up along the way. A good tinter will know when something is unacceptable and fix or redo the window. The truth is that after the initial fussy inspection of the fresh new job, most people won't even notice that there is a microscopic dot or two on their back window. I don't even see the couple of dust spots that are right in front of me while I'm driving. Most likely because I can't even focus on them.

German cars can really, really suck to work on. Windshields can be twice as bad. Perfection is a myth, look through it not at it. I feel like there’s a micro fiber in your driver door. Bonus points if it matches the paint lol!

Yo, welcome to the tint game! Since you're moving up from cheap dyed films, you're gonna want something that lasts and performs way better without killing your wallet. For solid quality without going crazy expensive, I'd recommend ceramic or carbon films. They give you better heat rejection, UV protection, and won't fade or turn purple like those cheap dyed ones. If you're in Canada and need something that ships up north, look into SunTek Carbon or 3M Ceramic IR. Both are solid brands, and their films perform great in heat and light rejection while staying durable. Llumar ATC is another good one, still affordable but way better than dyed stuff, and it’s a good balance of performance and price. Some brands don't ship directly to Canada, but you can check local distributors or shops that carry them. Hit up places like TintDepot or even Amazon Canada to see what's available.

At my wits end. cliff notes, half assed installation job on 2 cars windshield, had to argue and demand they re do it and after waiting several hours, installer admitted for second car he didnt fix the issue and just let it sit in sun. Installer and manager both agreed they saw the issue (dust/smudge) Started saying MB windshields are hard/weird etc. I demanded they take it off and re do it. Begrudgingly did it and turned out fine. second car had a 3 inch scratch in lower passenger side window. Fixed that no issue. Now its been a month and I have this issue on rear driver passenger window. I feel it from inside, its rough/scratchy. My nail can get caught on the bubble from the inside. Have no idea what could cause this? Do I go back AGAIN and this is unacceptable? There is a second bubble similar but not rough from the inside the camera didn't pick up. What would cause this to be rough from the inside? To me for $850 (audi etron gt all windows including panoramic roof and windshield pinnacle) and for a MB Eqe $600, this is a nightmare of crap work. Sucks because they did my last cars 3 years ago no issue.

That was what I thought. Thank you.

That would be a 'No'. 995 is a structural sealant generally used in the film industry for blast and anti-intrusion protection. 795 is a building weather sealant that is capable of handling high wind loads and is a neutral cure product ... meaning it will not degrade the metal in solar control films as it cures. Used mostly for sealing the edges of exterior mounted window films. Personally, I will not insert myself into any use of 795 for security purposes.