Prepping for my windshield install

I really appreciate this response. I have reached out to Eastman. Thanks again.

I would do Johnson scenic view if you want just rejection over Daylight natural. Johnson is a solid product for sure.

You definitely have a conundrum. Schools and govt have been doing safety film for years now. Sadly, if the film isn't anchored when applied to tempered glass, which is what might be in doors leading into a school, a shooter can put a couple bullets through film and glass and kick the panel out along the edges. In commercial window glass framing, there are no guarantees with these type installs from a 'keeping them safe' perspective. It really depends on the size of hammer used, if you get my drift. The instructions for attachments are based on laboratory testing, including field testing for blast protection. It sounds as though the boss man might be putting people in harms way by cutting corners or eliminating steps in instructions to achieve maximum effectiveness. IDK what the client is trying to achieve. For instance, being confronted by an AK or AR wielding individual? Those weapons can easily cut a hole in filmed glass settings I less than a minute allowing the perp to kick out an opening or walk through in the event the panel simple collapse due to loss of structure. I was once in sales and wound up leaving them to do their bidding without me. I know far too much for my own good in selling. If it troubles you enough, you'll find yourself selling yourself to some who has scruples like you and I. Before I left the industry jetdry was coming on the scene. I don't remember what the chemist said about its use installing film, but you certainly can make an attempt to find out straight from the horse's mouth. Eastman Chemical owns many film brands and is 3M's largest and most formidable competitor, so you can call them in Martinsville, Virginia @ 276-627-3000 and ask to speak to one of the chemists in research to get the answer to jetdry use. I'm not as sure about getting the skinny through 3M. That's all I can add to your dilemma. Lots of luck.

3M's security film is unique in that it tends to be more difficult to tear. At least that's how they marketed it back in the 1990's. That said, their 600 (6-mil) or 800 (8-mil) series of safety film is the recommendation for homeowners looking to beef up their security. 3M's 600 performs like 8-mil competitive products ... and is an easier install. From an attachment perspective: It can be a nightmare when the time comes to remove film and attachment. Framing will not bode well in many instances, depending on how cleanly an attachment system releases for all surfaces. Example would be a standard sealant or structural sealant. Tempered glass is found in sliding doors or any glass that poses a risk of someone walking or falling through it. Without an attachment system on tempered glass, which breaks into small non-lethal beads of glass, the film glass can be broken and pushed out of the framing/gasket (without attachment) ... falling to the floor like a wet blanket. All other home glass is annealed (or plate) that breaks in large shards that provide better grip in the frame, gasket and to the aftermarket film, compared to tempered glass. This allows safety film to hold the panel in place for longer periods of time and takes greater effort to gain a safe opening to get inside. Annealed glass also has the benefit of making someone bleed if they are clumsy around the edge of each shard. This provides DNA forensic evidence. It really depends on what tool used to penetrate and how much time a person has to clear the glass. If they want in bad enough, they are likely to breach the filmed glass with the same effort as a (say a solid wood) door. It's been a decade since I was in the industry, so I have no idea of what is new or what has gone by the wayside for lack of demand. You're a rare bird in terms of requesting and following through with this type of security for a home (again by standards known a decade ago). Tough decision, but if your pockets are deep enough, much of the detrimental side I've mention would likely be moot. The film product might get 10, 15, or 20 years life, depending on sun exposure, before replacement is necessary. Good luck.

Short and sweet; I'd go with Johnson Films. Johnson Films has been around since the late 1970's. Maxpro, maybe 15-20 years.

Hi, I am looking to get professionally installed security film for my house for all the downstairs large windows. I have been doing some research and 3m appears to most recommended. Is the 3m s140 sufficient for home security or s800 recommended? I have asked the sales rep when doing in house quotes and they were not able to really talk thru the recommended. When asked about 3m impact attachment system, one company reported that no longer in manufacture. The other company they can do it but 3m impact attachment system for residential but be unslightly and recommended structural silicone instead. When asking for quotes/ information, is there anything else we should for? Thank you!

“Recently came to my attention” not intention. “It recently came to my attention” not “intention” 🙄

Totally new here. I can barely install any tint or film, but I have been selling film for a very successful architectural/flat glass dealer for the last 2 years. I recently learned about something that has been weighing on me quite heavily, and I thought someone here might be have some advice or help steer me in the right direction. The company I work for has benefitted greatly from the recent “security film boom”, especially with respect to schools, churches, etc. We have secured several contracts with school boards all across our state, as well as many local private schools and pre-schools. As one of the lead sales people, I have personally benefited from this boost in demand, securing many extremely large sales over the last 2 years. It recently came to my intention that my boss has been instructed our installation team to “bend the rules” regarding some of the manufacturing specifications of proper installation of certain products we use on a regular basis. This specifically relates to the installation of DOW 995 structural adhesive. Rather than take the time to pull the gaskets and back fill the channel with backer rod OR flush trim the gaskets to the frame, my boss has been specifically instructing our team to install the caulk directly over the rubber gaskets, which appears to be a big NO-NO with that specific product. (I realize that this is not a problem with 3M IPA, but we are about 50%-50% on use of one or the other on all projects) Furthermore, we (the installation team) have been adding Jet Dry to the soap water mixture used when installing any and all security films to prevent the occurrence of “champagne bubbles” behind the film; no matter the brand, interior or exterior, or film thickness. I can’t find many resources as to whether this matters or what implications it might have for the effectiveness of the adhesive, but I can’t find any information that suggests this is advisable either. It is the case with many of these jobs, that I am the only real “face” the client knows with regard to the sale or installation of their products. I don’t know how much, if any, these “corner cuts” compromise the function of the products, but it seems extremely sleazy to do this simply to make a few extra bucks or save a day or two on a job site when those potentially being put at risk are school children. Anybody have any advice? Am I making a mountain out of a mole hill? Do I bear any liability as the person who sold this film that was not installed properly? Im all ears. Thanks

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