Thought I would add that the white and black, non ribbed specificly, seem to have the most slide action and usually won't scuff the film if the edge is fresh.

Is anyone familiar with Johnson Window Films? We are looking to install window tint on residential windows and are looking for a film that reflects as little as possible (while of course rejecting as much heat as possible). Their PD 75 EXT line has visible light reflectance of 8% and IR rejection of 56% and 79%. I just haven't seen any reviews online or anyone posting about it in this thread, so was just hoping to see some positive feedback, or any feedback really, before moving forward with it. Thanks all.

I can't see much in that pic but I would recommend using warm to hot-ish water to flush your edges when laying the film and using one of these lidco cards to finish your edgework before and after cutting. Since you're using a matte film you can probably get away with using a pen/poker to relieve the air. You can find both on amazon. Good luck.

Company Background: Auto Tinting Austin LLC is a 5-Star rated Window Tinting business established in 2013. We offer high quality products, expert installation and excellent customer service. We Offer: -A Very Positive and Supportive Work Atmosphere -Consistent Work Year Round -Very Competitive Pay -Air Conditioned Bay -Tool Allotment -Snacks and Lunches -$1000 Sign On Bonus -Willing to Assist in Relocating the Right Candidate -Porter and Tint Shop Support Team -Plotter, Bottles, Shampoo Etc All Provided Job Duties: Seeking experienced window tinting technician to install automotive window film. Experience with plotter and hand cutting. Ability to operate manual vehicles for parking and moving. Will work with a helper team that can step in to cut film, move cars, remove film. Positive atmosphere. Hours: Schedule is open Monday-Saturday. Pay: $1000 Sign on Bonus! $1000-$2500+/Week Full Time, $300-600/Day Part Time ---BASE PAY AND TIPS!! Please call to schedule interview. 512-956-8468 Manager: Jody/Aric Auto Tinting Austin LLC 1601 Bench Mark Dr. Ste C Austin, TX 78728 www.AutoTintingAustin.com Job Type: Full-time Job Type: Part-time Pay: $1500-$2500+/Week Full Time, $300-600/Day Part Time

Hi all, I'm relatively new here. I don't have a huge amount of experience with ppf and tinting. I have wrapped a car in 3M vinyl before, and am now wrapping my car with Suntek Matte Ultra PPF on my matte finish car. I feel like I've watched countless installation videos of DIY and ppf installation. Everything has been going really well so far, admittedly I had a bit of trouble getting the edges to stick wrapping around, but otherwise has been good. However, the issue I am having is I can't figure out what these marks are underneath the ppf. They look like some sort of moisture marks, or air bubbles, I'm not too sure what they are or what's causing them. Any help would be very much appreciated before I do any more! Thank you so much!

You can also call some tint shops around you and see which ones have a meter. There are meters that can measure the amount of IR heat your current tint is blocking. You can then make the product comparison from their spec chart to confirm the correct installation.

your idea sound great! however, I just thought of a non-destructive way to go about it. I can just go ask the tint shop to give me a small piece of regular XR tint in the same darkness. I can probably say something like I'll take that piece and apply it to my friend who has the same car as me, but her windows are totally not tinted. I'll just have to find a BTU meter and test her car and my car.

an old 2003 lexus. my 07 lexus did the same thing. seal turned white after steamer got close i'll post a pic later of the white discoloration Google says it might be "rubber bloom"

If your willing to remove the tint from 1 window and use a heat lamp bulb and a BTU meter you could probably get a really good idea 😅 (from my experience) regular XR should get you about a 70% reduction in BTUs, where as XRPlus would be over 90%. You might at that point burn your bridge with your tinter though, it’s a bit extreme.

@Ryker Appreciate the tip, Thank You. Tinting was never easy, for sure. Not to go off on a tangent, but I can't imagine how much of a b*~ it would be to shrink Crystalline or Huper Optik, not to mention how expensive the film is. You'd need specialized factory training to learn em' I suppose. >:) Question if I may, is an H-Pattern absolutely necessary? Does it depend on your style of shrinking? I've noticed some folks play with the placement of the "H" , higher or lower, some don't tack the sides and leave just a central line to divide the top/bottom, and also some even somehow let the film float entirely with a tack. (dry shrinking btw) I've had a hell of a time previously on an early model Forester rear glass, and those apparently aren't even hard to shrink. 🤡