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Smallish bubbles 1.5 days after install; normal or cause for concern?


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If the rest of the job appears to be fine, I'd suggest the tinter should have put a bit more effort into preparing the glass for film.
I always (Unless I'm tinting a vehicle with known issues with rear demister quality) use a fine grade steel wool to clean the rear glass first. This will usually remove any oxidisation from the defroster lines and allow the film to sit as flat on the glass as possible. I can tell by looking at the lines in the picture that prep could have been better.

I'm curious as to what type of vehicle you have too, as some vehicles can be more difficult than others to get a decent job.

 

 

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53 minutes ago, doctor4766 said:

If the rest of the job appears to be fine, I'd suggest the tinter should have put a bit more effort into preparing the glass for film.
I always (Unless I'm tinting a vehicle with known issues with rear demister quality) use a fine grade steel wool to clean the rear glass first. This will usually remove any oxidisation from the defroster lines and allow the film to sit as flat on the glass as possible. I can tell by looking at the lines in the picture that prep could have been better.

I'm curious as to what type of vehicle you have too, as some vehicles can be more difficult than others to get a decent job.

 

 

The front and rear windows appear to be good but the rear windshield is driving me crazy.

 

I drive a 1997 Lincoln Town Car. Considering they used these as limos back in the day, I assumed tinting would be fairly simple but hey, i know practically nothing about auto tinting and the intricacies involved in getting a good job done.

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7 hours ago, Furioo said:

 

 

Unrelated question but I drive a 1997 Lincoln Town Car; the installer said it was a lot harder to tint this car compared to newer cars he's done. What problems does an older car have when tinting it?

Ok I missed this part.

 

Do you live in a colder state where ice and snow prevail, or are you close to the coast?

I only ask as I often come across vehicles with defrost lines that have rust/oxidisation on their surface.

This can be from condensation, a window leaking in colder/wetter climates, or from being in a salt air area.

 

A thorough cleaning of the back window, including the defrost lines is critical for both good adhesion and longevity of the film.

 

Newer vehicles also tend to be more tinter friendly, as in having black ceramic boarders and easily removable trim that film can be slipped in behind.

 

Before you have that film removed though, just rub over the inside of the tint where the imperfections are with your thumb nail and I'll bet it looks much better.

 

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