Report

Hello all. I have not actively tinted for about 15 years (I have done about 5-10 cars in the past decade). I just ordered a 60” roll to do a friends model 3. I am worrying about the about of shrinking needed. can you give me an idea of the complexity compared to early 2000s model cars. Is it on the same level as a vw beatle, eclipse, or? my roll arrives this weekend and I am getting nervous. tips and tricks for the rear and side windows?

I recently received a new Llumar automotive film swatch and was looking at the Ceranova ceramic films performance data. The IR energy rejected for both the 20 and 35% versions is listed as 90% The TSER is 59% and 49% respectively for these films. Interestingly the IR energy rejection for the metalized Llumar films that I normally use isn't even listed in the performance data,I wonder if it's the same?, however the TSER for the Jetblack 20 and 35 films is higher at 62 and 58%! I know what I prefer. I find it illogical to promote ceramic films as being superior, and therefore charging a lot more for them, when the IR is only a small part of the big picture. Here is an excerpt from a page I have read recently (Why Infrared Rejection isn't a complete measurement of heat rejection. - Twilight Auto Tint) Infrared heat only makes up about 53% of the total heat we receive from the sun. So with the other 47% of the sun’s heat left out of the picture, is there any point looking at the level of infrared rejection window films offer? In theory, if you only wanted to know how much heat rejection was caused by a film’s infrared rejecting technology – and not from other factors such as its colour – then an infrared rejection measurement would be very useful. It would be particularly helpful if you are looking for a film that keeps your windows light, whilst blocking out a significant amount of heat. However, there’s an important caveat to keep in mind when comparing different infrared rejection measurements: there isn’t really an industry standard to measure infrared rejection. This means that the infrared rejection measurement you are reading may only demonstrate the infrared rejection achieved within a very small and favourable part of the infrared spectrum – rather than across the whole spectrum. It means that the level of infrared rejection claimed could refer only to the very small section of the solar spectrum that also happens to give the best result. So whilst technically true, such a measurement may have little value in the real world.

Thats brilliant.

Selling film using IR is misleading and picking one by it's IR performance is short changing oneself. Here's the technical facts, confusing as they can be, will lead to a more sensible decision when purchasing film products: (N)IR is only one piece of the pie (48+/-%) and in many cases it is a select wavelength or a range of multiple wavelengths that they publish, but almost always never represents the 'entire' near infrared spectrum from, 780nm to 2500nm. The best measurement for determining a film's final performance is to compare TSER's (total solar energy rejection), the higher, the better, or SHGC's (solar heat gain coefficient), the lower, the better. After this, you must now determine how much light you want coming in. Visible light accounts for 48+/-% of the total solar energy coming from the sun. Visible light converts to far-infrared same as near infrared (and UV), once absorbed into a surface and radiates off a surface as heat (that we sense). Far-infrared is heat, near infrared is not. The sun's solar energy is comprised of visible light, near infrared light and ultraviolet light (just under 2% of solar energy). All three contribute to unwanted heat. All I can add about Johnson Films is, they are one of a half dozen film makers in the marketplace today that date back to before 1980.

https://www.rvinyl.com/Tint-and-Protection

Hi Dano, thank you so much for your reply. Even just knowing the term silvering/champagining and that that is what it is is very helpful. I'll certainly implement your suggestions for the rest of the car. I really appreciate your time!

The top mark looks like a piece of dirt or a paint nib. The other marks closer to the edges look like "champaign". I would add more soap in your bottle and use an ounce of 70% alcohol, or less, in your mix to heat up the glue. Use a second bottle with warm water to flush 80% of the soap from the last inch or so away from the edge and squeegee. and rince the edge completely. Then paddle out the edges with the hard card. Dry it with a towel and paddle it again AFTER you look at it for excess water. Spray it with more warm water before you paddle a second time to lube the surface and not introduce more soap that might get under the edge. Dry it when finished to keep an eye on the glue while you work on the next panel. With the matte films you may need a little more arm pressure on your squeegee. I usually use the "dark yellow" from Interwest for most PPF with plenty of soapy water on the surface to lube the squeegee and not scratch the material. Now, if you don't want to do all that.... you can use the corner of a clear-max squeegee to massage most of that down over the next few days and make it 80% better where only you would know it's there.

Hi Dano, Thank you so much for the reply, I'll check out those applicator cards on Amazon as suggested. I have posted another photo that might show the marks I was talking about a bit more clearly. Admittedly I haven't tried warm to hot water, so I'll give that a go!

A guy randomly asked about this, R Vinyl tint. Anyone know anything about it. I'd never heard of it. TIA

Thought I would add that the white and black, non ribbed specificly, seem to have the most slide action and usually won't scuff the film if the edge is fresh.