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Factory tinted glass works by absorption and as many of us know, air passing over the glass carries away any heat build up. If glass is tempered with zero threat from nickel sulfide inclusions, you can install any film. It's a crap shoot whether an owner will experience spontaneous breakage, in other words, it is such a small occurrence percentage it's not thought of as an issue ... say, for recall. Back in the day when I was installing film and a custy asked for their sunroof to be tinted, I would only offer mirrored tint (Solargard's silver 20%, 35% or 50%, custy's choice), most especially when the glass was factory tinted. Today's glass can be scary, when greed is factored in.

I just looked up the #'s for my own memory The absorbance of 70% was 58% absorbance 55% was 65% absorbance I had 70% as a max figure and the next tier down was 45% at 72% absorbance Hence, that was my -uneducated- guess on going with 55%

As long as the pano has a border around the glass, I would wait a few days before opening it just in case. I doubt the wind would be able to pick up an edge but you never know.

Since stock glass can explode, adding a 50% film like Ceramic that absorbs heat will definitely increase the risk. We typically suggest 35% or lighter to customers but have done it all the way down to 5% many times, with zero reported breaks to date. I've installed it that dark on some of my cars in the past with no issue. So you never know.

just had tint installed in the roof this morning. how long do I have to wait before opening them? the reason I'm asking is that on my car, the front glass panel moves up and goes over and above the second panel.. which means it's sticking outside. if I drive like that, is there any risk with the tint peeling off?

I had our pano's done at 50% (not not want to go darker as I wanted to let some heat in and the film *absorb less*). I thought this was a good thing to do not only to reduce the heat but also should the glass shatter...as least it was laminated from the tint... Good or bad idea on this throught process ? I actually hemmed and hawed at this, as I wasn't sure which one was better or worse (to tint or not on sunroofs) to the the common exploding sunroof theme......

Somebody is cutting corners where the glass is made; it's either they are not cleaning their equipment as well as needed or skipping the heat soak test where the glass gets dipped into boiling water to test for nickel-sulfide inclusion contaminants serious enough to bust the glass during the process. If it passes the test, it does not mean it free of inclusions, it tests for those that are larger enough to cause problems way too soon. The heat soak can also trigger smaller size inclusions to begin growing. They grow until their expansion places enough internal pressure/tension for the glass to break. Factory tinted and plain 70% VLT side window glass are susceptible to spontaneous breakage. Sliding doors in homes are known to do the same, although extremely rare. Adding high absorptive window film can accelerate growth of nickel-sulfide inclusions.

Who knew this topic would be a 2 page thread.... FNew reg and inspection stickers with cling applied and laying flat. On the one I did 3 months ago, one side started pulling back with 3 fingers after 45 days after initial laydown where it lied flat. Here's hoping the new stickers don't do this.

I just googled Hyundai Palisade to see the size of the the moonroof. Isn't exploding sunroofs just a common them these days....anywhere from because due to the size of it, most sunroofs are not laminated, a rock, etc, etc can create a way weak point gone un-noticed, etc.

It has been an ongoing thing for Hyundai...they settled a class action lawsuit in 2019 over it. It has been happening to other manufacturers too including the Jeep Wagoneer. Below has a list of the complaints by vehicle. https://www.google.com/amp/s/globalnews.ca/news/3816319/exploding-sunroofs-car-models-brands-transport-canada/amp/