creasing while wet shrinking...

[Guest nordfink]

any advice??? I get 90% of back glass done and always get a little crease or two. sometimes I get a little crease in the first 10 seconds. fingers on the bottom turn into huge deer antler looking things and I can usually get em worked out but after tonight im at a total loss, any tips? im still learning, not a pro by any means but the frustration factor is driving me mad!

[gosurfing85]

try dry shrinking.. Easiest way to get it down is give glass a small mist rub whole thing down with fabric softner make sure it is dry then use a moist towel to make a vertical line across the middle of the windshield so the tint won't move around on you. then go at it. It's alot easier than wet shrinking and the fabric softner makes it easier soon you wont have to use any fabric softner just takes a little of getting use to. hope this helps. let the heat gun do most the work not the card

[Guest VaTinterPMan]

Same thing as above...but you can use Bar soap....Just rub it up ( lather ) with a sock or wash cloth and than rub the back window and let it dry than make your H pattern so the tint doesn't move.....

But also when you get to the end of shrinking or you reach point where it gets to hard to shrink, Pick up the film a little than put it back down and smooth out the area of tint that is already shrunk, this takes tension out of the film and your fingers will be more str8 up and down....I do this once or twice and it lays right down again.....

[gospeed3go]

you can overheat the fingers so much the tint sticks to glass and can crease when being carded. so try and keep that in mind when you shrink next. thats why youl see guys lift and spray underneath a piece of film they are still in the middle of shrinking

[TintDude]

Yep, bar soap works as well or better than fabric softener/dryer sheets and without all the chemicals.

[Counterpart]

Creases form easier because your heat gun's hot air is discipated by wet shrinking. You end up overexposing on one area.

Use this combination:

- Dry shrink

- Use higher temp ( yeah, u didn't read wrongly)

- Keep moving your heat gun in up-down/left right motion. Can't be lazy on this.

dry shrinking also reduces ghosting in some types of films.

[Guest Malcolm E Boo]

Same thing as above...but you can use Bar soap....Just rub it up ( lather ) with a sock or wash cloth and than rub the back window and let it dry than make your H pattern so the tint doesn't move.....

But also when you get to the end of shrinking or you reach point where it gets to hard to shrink, Pick up the film a little than put it back down and smooth out the area of tint that is already shrunk, this takes tension out of the film and your fingers will be more str8 up and down....I do this once or twice and it lays right down again.....

x2

[pbalentine]

Can't help with wet shrinking b/c I can't really do it anymore for some reason... As mentioned, try dry shrinking, I do it on all suvs and hatchbacks, even did a mini cooper recently like this.

[flat rock stan]

If you keep wet forming......... You might be pushing the sides in towards the middle while working ...... causing the fingers to become larger.

cheers

Stan

............ dry is where its at

[flat rock stan]

any advice??? I get 90% of back glass done and always get a little crease or two. sometimes I get a little crease in the first 10 seconds. fingers on the bottom turn into huge deer antler looking things and I can usually get em worked out but after tonight im at a total loss, any tips? im still learning, not a pro by any means but the frustration factor is driving me mad!

Welcome toTintDude

keep posting and you can use the pm system.......... pm me anytime with questins