new guy, staples for door panels

[Guest davidh]

im trying to and have succeeded so far in reproducing door panels for my 46 hudson. im using black backer board just as the original in multiple layers, naugahide and good uph. material , and 3m glue to hold the folded over edges. of course the glue only sticks for a week or so and then it just lets loose.

I was told I need to staple it in the back,into the black backer board but, possibly I should have used thin foam under the naug. to increase the thinkness so the dang staples won't show. . . . or is there 1/16 in leg, 1/2" staples somewhere that would work. . ? ? ?

help, im really stuck here.

thanks very much,

davidh, the old guy

[Guest sewing_guy]

First off, David, good going on tackling the interior in your 46. It will make you appreciate the car that much more. Please post pics. I did the interior on a 49 Hudson Commodore walk-through a few years back. It's one of the few that is on my website at www.prostitchauto.com (I have GOT to get that updated).

Now to hopefully help you out. You're using the waterproof board for originality, or that is what you had on hand? The majority of my restoration jobs are more useable/museum restorations, where it looks accurate and appropriate, but upon dissection you'd realize I have either updated or altered the structure. I prefer to use 1/8" luan plywood on my door/sail/kick panels because it does not bubble and warp over the years like the waterproof board. It also holds the frog clips much better if you foresee removing the panels more than once in it's lifetime. And it glues and staples much better than the waterproof board. The board still works fine (it's been in cars for years). Just be careful when removing.

You've got to have at the very least a cheesy layer of something between the door card and the covering. The originals from that era used thin cotton sheeting and layers of thin chipboard. To do a true, honest to God point-worthy restoration, that's how you go. To do one that is reasonable pricewise, use a foam layer under the vinyl. I prefer to us Volara closed cell foam (it comes in several thicknesses, just has to be sanded to break the skin before glueing). This gives it the proper feel when touching, as well as hides the panel clip heads, AND gives you a bit more leeway with stapling. For the layperson, you can also go with simple headliner material such as what can be found at Hancock Fabrics or JoAnns. I don't normally use this because it is a bit on the soft side, but is great for small panels and sidings that just need a little something. It will also work for door panels.

If your glue lets loose after an hour, toss it in the trash. You're trying to use glue instead of contact adhesive, which is what you need for panels such as this. Professional shops use something along the lines of DAP Weldwood Landau Top Adhesive (I won't leave home without it). BUT, if you don't mind buying a few cheapass paint brushes, you can go to Wal Mart and get some DAP Contact Adhesive found in the paint department. I use this myself when installing convertible tops. It sticks strong, and keeps getting a tighter bond as it ages. You brush both surfaces with a moderately thick coating ,and then WAIT. Wait wait wait until both surfaces are completely dry to the touch. When it comes time to stick the vinyl, make sure you do it right the first time. It's a bear to pull it free again. The little secret is that waiting lets all the gas evaporate off the surfaces so it won't bubble your covering. And you want to HEAT the surfaces before you stick them. This reactivates the glue. I prefer a heat gun, but you can also steal your wife's hairdryer (if you're very sneaky and she's not home). More than likely if you use this, you won't need to staple. BUT, if you do, I use a #7 upholstery staple, 3/8" crown. I get them with a leg as short as 5/32", but 1/4" works when you have Volara on a panel. You might find a friendly local upholsterer (find a furniture person, they won't care that you're doing your own....ugh...car interior) and ask then to pop a few in for you.

Whether you glue and staple, or just glue, just remember to NOT overlap the vinyl at the corners. That looks tacky and can ruin an otherwise perfect panel. Instead, make relief cuts and take out wedges of vinyl so the tabs lay next to one another. Just don't cut the reliefs so deep that they are noticeable from the top.

Good luck. Again, post pics of the progress.

[Guest davidh]

great information, I off to walmart. I want to thank you VERY much for your advice. I will post pix when I get the edges fastened back down. im not making a trophy car, just a nice sunday summer driver. we already have all the body work (very little required) done, and 8 coats of base clear black thats about a 90 pointer or so. lots of stainless on this car, mostly all buffed and installed. im working on the insides plus trying to repair the pot / white metal trim that needs reconditioning and plating.

we did woodgrain the dash and it came out beautiful with buffed clear coat. (got the master kit from grain-it) that in itself could be a career for my son.

so again, thanks for the input. look for more questions when I get to the seats ..........................

davidh

(the old guy)