Both can be challenging;
Gullwing already has the adhesive with a liner that needs to be removed and pressure applied to seat the adhesive with as few air pockets as possible. Any hiccups means a do over with each strip. Think about how it would look from the outside, not to mention the task of keeping it evenly aligned as you move along each strip. Practice makes progress, not perfection.
I've got a few feet of white left over from my days in the industry and I can assure anyone will be challenged to install the stuff. What I have is predecessor of Gullwing and I cannot remember what they called it back then.
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Dow995 structural sealant is akin to working with peanut butter; it can be messy, but once dry it has a much cleaner look to a Gullwing with air pockets trapped. Sealant can easily drip or contact unwanted surfaces, making clean up fun.
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Either way, if there's any need for removal after a lengthy period of time, it could be work intensive to not do damage to the frame.
Also, for both, you are best of waiting no less than one week film dry time (sun exposure and or warm and dry weather conditions) before applying any anchoring system, lest you find yourself with film lift in areas where the anchoring system was under stress to pull away.
Here's a link for anyone who wants more info on Gullwing installation.
https://windowfilm-staging.azurewebsites.net/commercial/bomb-blast-protection/mdico-gullwing-anchoring-system
Flat Glass Residential and Commercial Installer wanted asap.
Full time position is in Tampa Florida 33602
Residential and Commercial only (No Auto)
Pay is $900.00 per week plus monthly bonus and work week is any 5 days out of 7 because workdays can change based
on the customer's needs. Must be very reliable and professional with great attitude. 2 year experience minimum.
Michael Vega
Owner
727-486-2796
www.hightechnologywindowfilms.com
Hard to read minds you know. And the whole color change patterns are overkill. I’m off a mm and the whole kit is wrong. I need the easy kits for the car dealers doing the easy shit around me. Not I cover where paint isn’t. And there’s no heads up in the software ahead of time.
Dap. The patterns were ok. I usually bulk everything. None of the plots fit great until you figure out what the designer was thinking as far as proper streach goes. It may have went a little faster but coverage wasn't the same.
This was number four, I bulked the other three and will probably bulk the next one.
Automotive glass has evolved in the past couple of decades. It is spotty throughout the auto industry as to non-laminated glass that screens UV. Personally, I spent days going around car lots about 12-14 years ago using an EDTM 2450 meter to measure solar rejection performance, including UV.
New models' privacy glass did have the capacity to screen a substantial amount of UV rays. Hell, even the front door glass (non-privacy) of a Cadillac screened a substantial amount of UV. It truly surprised me, so I went back to my desk and began searching through glass makers' performance values (what they would share that is). There were statements of UV protection and other (general) statements said, their glass protects the car interior.
I'm sure a member of this site might have that meter, whereby they could do the same on car lots, after receiving permission from the dealer's manager.
It is always better to be safe rather than sorry by having window film applied knowing all major brands screen 99%+ of the sun's UV rays.
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