Is there an easier way to do this?

January 12, 2006

Had a slight problem with the doors on this project. Seems that the vertical(sides) glass retention stops will just fall out when the gasket is removed. We tried to put the gasket back, but alas, we are NOT glazers :lol6 . So we "glued" the stops back in place with D/C995, then masked and caulked. Used ALOT of 995 filling in the gap between the glass and the stop. It worked and I'm sure that its strong, but is there a more efficient way to do this? Anyone else run into this? We tried to fill the gap with cut down gasket, but it fell right out :bingo .

Anyway, thanks all.

January 12, 2006

Someone around here used to glaze. Check some of the recent threads. I think it was Oz but I'm not positive.

January 12, 2006

Ive seen some guys pull the aluminum frames out and DOW the edges and then put the frames back on. And ive also seen people just tape it off and do it like a regular window.

January 12, 2006

Ive seen some guys pull the aluminum frames out and DOW the edges and then put the frames back on. And ive also seen people just tape it off and do it like a regular window.

:poke

That's the way we do it. Pull the stops, film all the way to the edge, pump the channel full of 995 and then replace the stop.

You have to be careful not to put to much 995 in, or in will leak out and create a mess.

aliveandawake · January 13, 2006

:beer

I remove the stops, film, then trim leaving a slight gap from the edge and then a big, healthy bead all the way around. It can be messy, if you keep it uniform, and clean any excess, it works great. A security camera caught a guy trying to break into a liquor store door a few weeks after I filmed it in this method. It held after a minute with a tire iron and kicking and he then ran away :beer The top corner was starting to let go though...

January 13, 2006

Someone around here used to glaze. Check some of the recent threads. I think it was Oz but I'm not positive.

[*]360127

:nope

It was before tintin( early 80,s, burnt the brain a bit since but)anyway ive updated a couple of times since, basic courses never the less, done a little over the years, so I just give ya what works for me not to influence anyone in any way thow :hmmm .In Oz we call it wet glazin? same structual sealant as you guys( DC995) with a fabrication such as this one, as we pull the gasket we chock the glass inside and out 2 person job,(but only if it is gaskets both sides ofcourse) with replacement rubber blocks(1 inch long x frame to glass size) bought on a roll all sizes, each foot along we put one just .5-1mm short of the frame or tension rail, when we find the glass to be stable,(floating oz term not sure ?)if not we have 3-10mm (all roll sizes come to suit cavity) foam tubeing on a roll that we fill the back cavity with, (its all pretty cheap rolls of products,cost passed to customer and labour charge accordingly, rubber and foam cheap as,cut down gaskets can be a bit soft) also the foam tubing reduces a bit of cost in sealant :beer once the glass is good(stable) we clean as norm, apply, and the rest ya know, just cut the film around the chocks(blocks?) ya dont want to work to quick as in some cases ya might knock a block etc but smooth heavy pressure action the chocks still handle the app fine, when finished seal it up and of ya go :beer , now it is as safe as houses, probably safer (glass should remain in the same place it was originaly in and that makes life a tad easier)....... :hmmm