Guest bherrala Posted January 18, 2005 Report Share Posted January 18, 2005 Hi, I'm in desperate need of some technical support. I read the post about DIY system's and how everybody doesn't like them but fortunately I am very knowledgeable about cars and electronics....I just can't really afford to spend $250+ on a professional installation. So, I installed a Rattler 369D Remote Start w/ Keyless Entry on my '96 Chrysler Sebring Lxi and I've encountered a problem. I've been trying to call Directed's tech support but I'm having no luck getting through. I've waited an hour before giving up on several occasions. Apparently "free" tech support assumes that a persons time is worth nothing. Today I stopped by a Directed retailer and they told me that they didn't have time to answer any questions. I have the remote start working as it should but I'm having issues with the keyless entry part. I can lock/unlock the doors with the remote however I'm having problems getting it to work with the car's factory alarm. According the printout I got off of the diyrattler website (which I can no longer access), the factory alarm should arm/disarm when the doors are locked/unlocked. The "factory arm" and "factory disarm" wires from the module shouldn't have to be used. At first, the remote would lock the doors but would only arm the factory alarm only if a door was open (which makes no sense to me). Well I actually did get through to tech support once and the guy told me to install a relay in the lock output to the door trigger, apparently to make it "think" the door was open. That worked so now it will arm the alarm. On this car, the "alarm" light comes on when it is armed and goes off after about 15 seconds or so. If I unlock the car with the remote before the light goes off, it works fine. But if I unlock it after the light goes off, the factory alarm will go off when the door is opened. I have no idea what's going on or what to do about it. Sorry about the length of this post but I wanted to make sure it was clear what was going on. Please let me know if anyone can help me out, as it seems that no one else is willing to do so. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zrok Posted January 18, 2005 Report Share Posted January 18, 2005 is the lxi a convt. or coupe? either way... look in the driver's door harness for a green/white.. use 2 diodes, isolate your unlock from this disarm wire. use the unlock output of your rattler... I.e. come off the unlock wire from rattler, SOLDER the striped side of 2 diodes together with this unlock wire... take the free end of diode 1 and connect to grn/white in the driv. door boot. and take the free end of diode 2 and connect to the unlock wire you have already connected to. this should fix your prob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bherrala Posted January 19, 2005 Report Share Posted January 19, 2005 it's a coupe. just out of curiosity, how will the instructions you gave fix the problem? I'm actually away from home at the moment so I don't have access to my soldering iron...so I can't do it right now. I'm sure it will work but I still don't understand what the problem was. thanks a lot for your help, I'm definitely waiting on hold anymore for tech support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bherrala Posted January 19, 2005 Report Share Posted January 19, 2005 I just thought of something...insteading of messing with the unlock wire I'm already using, couldn't I just use the disarm wire from the rattler that is currently not being used? I think it gives out pretty much the same pulse as the unlock output. if that's possible, would I just use 1 diode? thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bherrala Posted January 19, 2005 Report Share Posted January 19, 2005 another question... where does that green/white go to? I know it's coming out of the key switch in the door but I don't know where it's going. I'm trying to figure out where the best place to access this wire would be. the area in the kick panel where basically all of the wires in the car are is very compact and it's difficult to find the correct wire sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zrok Posted January 19, 2005 Report Share Posted January 19, 2005 I wasn't sure if the rettler had a fact. disarm output. if it does, use it and you don't need a diode. to access these wires, the best place is in the door boot. the rubber boot that runs between the door and the body. this wire runs from the key cyl. to .. who knows where you may be able to get a haynes or chilton's manual for your car and look at the electrical schematic to try to figure it out, but I'd just pop the boot and get it there, or in the door if there's limited access. hope this hslps.. oh, the purpose of this wire is to disarm the factory security... and why it's not working as you're install provides, is hard to tell... but attaching to this wire in the door, or the boot will fix your ale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bherrala Posted January 19, 2005 Report Share Posted January 19, 2005 good deal. thanks for all your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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